1. Cutting treatment
From mid-October to early November, combine the wintering pruning branches to prune branches with well-proportioned and incisive buds, remove the leaves, cut into 10 cm long (about 3 knots) cuttings, cut into flat ends, and paint Stay at the bottom and cut it into a ramp.
2. Seedbed and nutrition bag preparation
Choose a plot that is leeward, sunny, flat, and has loose soil and is a seed bed that is 1 meter wide, 5-6 meters long, and 20-30 centimeters deep. The cooked nutrient soil and fine sand soil were mixed and blended with each other. The nutrients were disinfected with zincphosphorus and carbendazim and then placed in a nutrition bag. It was also possible to store the nutrient bag directly on the seedbed.
3. Cutting
Insert the nutrition bags one by one on the seedbed. Grate with a wooden stick or chopsticks, then insert the cuttings, depth 1.2-2/3, compaction. Note: Do not plunge down, prick the spine downwards, shoot upwards, water while inserting, and pour water after inserting. Then, stick a wooden stick on the seedbed, cover the film, and press it with the earth for four weeks.
4. Insecticide
In late March to early April, the cutting buds are about 1 cm in size and are vulnerable to locust infestations. They should be guarded against locust infestation, and can be fumigated with 80% dichlorvos, that is, 2 squares to insert five cotton balls with a diameter of about 0.6 cm, 2 Hours removed. After 1 week of observation, if there is insect reinsertion. At this time, special attention should be paid to insect pests, otherwise it would be extremely harmful to seedlings.
5. Precautions
Winter cuttings, cold and heat-resistant, can not be put into the greenhouse after the spring. In 4-5 months, the pot or land was planted and normal maintenance was performed.
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