Management techniques after tomato colonization

1. Moisture Management The suitable soil moisture for tomato growth is 65% to 75% of the seedling-reducing period, 80% to the initial result after easing the seedlings, and 90% to the fruiting period; the humidity in the above periods can not be lower than 50%. The soil moisture is mainly maintained by irrigation and water control. The correct irrigation method should be combined with the plant growth period, reproductive status and the water content of the soil itself.
The general irrigation method is: planting pouring feet "root water." Slow seedling stage pouring 1-2 times "rooting water" according to soil conditions. Rejuvenate the seedlings and pour them 1-2 times before flowering. From seeing flowers to flowering fruits, water should be properly controlled, that is, when water is not used, it is not watered. Because watering too much during this period will make the air humidity increase, resulting in pollen is not easy to be fertilized caused by falling flowers. When the first batch of fruit grows to about 3 cm, it will be poured with “stabilizing water” to ensure the fruit's enlargement; this irrigation must master the time. If the irrigation is too early, it will cause leggy and fruit drop, too late will affect the fruit development. . After entering the full fruit period, when each batch of fruit begins to expand, it must be poured 1-2 times with "strong fruit water," and the amount of water can be appropriately increased.
Tomato irrigation should take water. In this way, the infection of diseases can be reduced. If it is to take furrow irrigation, the water can not diffuse, and as soon as possible speed irrigation row, just to make the soil moist.
Where conditions permit, it is best to install micro-spraying or micro-droplet facilities in the tomato field, which can not only save a large amount of water, but also help the growth and development of tomatoes.
In terms of nutrient management, due to the high amount of fertilizer needed for tomato, it is still necessary to apply fertilizer in a reasonable manner in the case of applying base fertilizer. The top-dressing method is: Applying a quick-release compound fertilizer once after easing the seedlings to flowering, the dosage is 10-15 kg per mu. After the first spike was hung, the fruit was resumed once to protect the fruit. This fertilizer is very important, which can accelerate fruit enlargement of the first panicle, increase the rate of the second and third panicles, and promote the vegetative growth of the plant. After the combination of fruit batch harvesting, top dressing is applied 2-3 times. The type of top dressing in the result period is suitable for selecting large feces or special compound fertilizer, and the amount of top dressing should be flexibly controlled according to the reproductive status of the plant. It is generally about 30% of feces 10-15 lbs. or special compound fertilizers of about 10 kg. In the fruiting period, in order to improve the fruit quality and increase the good fruit rate, it is also possible to spray 1% of superphosphate or 0.1%-0.3% of potassium dihydrogen phosphate.
Second, cultivating weeds and cultivating soil in membrane-cultivated soil, if the soil is not compacted or weeds are not serious, cultivators may not be cultivated to prevent root damage and induce disease. However, due to watering or excessive rainfall caused by the surface of the table, you can only perform moderate cultivator in the early stage, must not be dug, as much as possible to hurt the root system. However, earth-cultivation is an indispensable part of the work of tomato. It is usually required to cultivate 2-3 times of earth, mainly covering the soil around the plant with the dirt in the ditch. This will make the drainage of the tomato land smoother. For tomato fields covered with mulch, it is also possible to remove mulching film 1-2 times later in the growing period; at the same time, combined with later-stage fertilizer and water management, the total yield can be significantly increased.
Third, insert the brackets and plants to adjust the tomato is a semi-standing plant, slow growth after entering the vigorous growth should be promptly inserted to prevent lodging. There are a single stand rack, fence frame, herringbone and four corner racks. Generally early maturing varieties can adopt a single stand; medium and late-maturing varieties should adopt fences and herringbone frames; and four-corner frames are rarely used.
An important part of plant adjustment is what kind of pruning method to take. There are two kinds of traditional pruning methods: one is "single pole pruning", leaving only the main pole, all lateral branches removed, leaving 3-4 ear fruit per plant, suitable for early maturing varieties. The other is "double branch pruning." In addition to the main branch, retain a lateral branch under the first spike inflorescence, so that it forms double stems with the main stem, and other lateral branches are successively removed, leaving 6-7 ear fruit per plant, suitable for In most late-maturing varieties. In addition to the above two methods, according to the author's exploration in tomato cultivation trials in recent years, tomato's pruning can also use "one dry half pruning method." That is, in addition to the main trunk of each strain, the first lateral branch under the first inflorescence is retained; however, this lateral branch only picks one fruit and then picks it up, so the name is dry and half. Using this method, compared with single-bar pruning, it can increase 15% to 20% of the previous yield at the same density; and it also prevents late plant advocacy, maintains a good population structure, and achieves higher total yield. The pruning method is suitable for early maturing and mid-maturing varieties.
In the process of pruning buds, emphasis should be placed on timely, not too early or too late, due to the existence of an internal interaction in various parts of the plant. The growth of axillary buds can stimulate the growth of the root group. The premature removal will affect the growth of the root system, even cause the incomplete development of the transmission system in the root group and intolerance to drought. The removal of too late will consume too much water, which will be detrimental to the flowering results. According to the test: The shoots should be picked when the lateral shoots are 6-10 cm long. And should pick the buds at noon on sunny days in order to facilitate the wound healing.
In the tomato plant adjustment, there are picking leaves and picking the heart. The leaves are mainly produced by removing old, sensitive, and weak photosynthetic functional leaves to improve the use of light energy. However, it is not appropriate to pick the leaves too early and too much; generally, the leaves below the first cluster of fruits are taken as degrees in the result period. The focus is mainly on the middle and late-maturing varieties. For the early-maturing varieties, measures can be taken only in order to accelerate the early fruit enlargement and the commercial nature of the last fruit is not significant.
Fourth, the harvest of tomato fruit can be divided into four periods in the maturation process, namely, green ripening period, coloring period, firm ripening period and ripening period (also known as soft ripening period).
Green ripe period - the fruit has fully expanded, but the peel is all green, the flesh is hard and the flavor is poor.
Color-changing period: The top of the fruit begins to turn yellowish-white, and the flesh begins to soften and the sugar content increases.
Ripening Period - The area of ​​3/4 of the fruit turns red or yellow and has the highest nutritional value. It is the most suitable time for fresh food.
The ripening period - the surface of the fruit is all red, the flesh is soft, and the sugar content is extremely high.

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